Formulating Cosmeceuticals using Medicinal Herbs

Interesting News July 29, 2023

The term ‘cosmeceuticals’ is an amalgamation of the words ‘cosmetics’ and ‘pharmaceuticals’.
According to Dr Albert Klingman, ‘Cosmeceuticals are topical agents distributed across a broad spectrum of materials, lying somewhere between pure cosmetics (lipstick and rouge) and pure drug (antibiotics, corticosteroids).’
The primary function of a cosmeceutical is to enhance skin health and beauty with the help of ingredients that impact the skin’s biological structure and function; therefore, cosmeceuticals have cosmetic and therapeutic functions.
Herbs have been used to enhance the appearance of skin and hair since the ancient period. Different cosmetic ingredients form the base to which one or more herbal ingredients are added, resulting in herbal cosmetic products that treat specific skin conditions. Plants are widely used in the development of novel pharmacological and cosmeceutical products.

How are herbal cosmeceuticals better than synthetic cosmeceuticals?

There is a steady rise in the demand for herbal medicines in cosmetic products. Skincare industries are incorporating herbs in toiletries, cosmetics and cosmeceutical products and toiletries to meet the increasing consumer demand. The factors for this trend are as follows:

Natural ingredients
Herbal cosmeceuticals use natural ingredients and are free from synthetic chemicals, which can be toxic to the skin. Herbal cosmeceuticals contain substances like coconut oil, aloe vera and almond oil. These components are rich in Vitamin E that nourishes the skin and enhances its appearance.
Consumers are concerned regarding synthetic chemicals and mineral oil used in conventional products and seek products made using natural ingredients and an emphasis on the properties of botanical extracts.
Safe to use
Natural cosmeceutical products are safer to use than conventional beauty products. Dermatologists consider them hypoallergenic, making them safer and can be used anywhere, anytime. Natural sources of Vitamin C are used as antioxidants in herbal cosmeceuticals instead of Butylated Hydroxytoluene (BHT) and Butylated Hydroxyanisole (BHA), which may cause allergic reactions in susceptible individuals.
Suitable for all skin types
Natural cosmeceuticals can be used for all skin types and are safely used by those with oily and sensitive skin without worrying about adverse effects.
Not tested on animals
Since herbal cosmeceuticals use only natural ingredients, they need not be tested on animals for safety, making them more ethical [1].

What are the various herbs used in the formulation of cosmeceuticals?

Numerous medicinal herbs and plants have been used for skin and hair care. Some important examples are as follows:

Coconut oil
Coconut oil has the highest concentration of medium-chain triglycerides (MCTs). According to research, MCTs generated from coconut oil have unique features with major nutritional and medicinal implications. Coconut oil is rich in C12 and C14 fatty acids, also called lauric and myristic acids, making it suitable as a moisturising agent. It also has antibacterial properties. Coconut oil can be used directly or is an ingredient in lotions, lip balms, lipsticks, shampoos and conditioners. Virgin coconut oil renders a pleasant fragrance to the product. Research has been conducted on formulating nanoemulsions using coconut oil to develop cosmetics and cosmeceuticals.
Sunflower oil
Sunflower oil is rich in Vitamin E, which has antioxidant properties. Lecithin, tocopherols, carotenoids, and waxes are found in sunflower oil. It is non-comedogenic and possesses smoothing characteristics. The smoothing characteristics of sunflower oil can be attributed to the similarities in the composition of lipids found in the outermost layer of the skin. In addition, research has shown that sunflower oil exhibits anti ageing, anti wrinkling and antifungal properties.
Jojoba oil
Jojoba oil is often incorporated into cosmetic products as a moisturising agent. Jojoba oil has a similar composition to sebum, an oily substance produced by the skin to protect and moisturise it. In addition, jojoba oil is beneficial in restoring the pH of skin and hair.
Aloe vera
Ancient Egyptians used aloe vera in their beauty regime more than 2,000 years ago. Aloe vera gel is shown to heal, moisturise and soften the skin. It is also rich in amino acids like leucine, isoleucine and saponins that have cleansing effects. The antioxidant properties in aloe vera are rendered by vitamins A, C and E.
Carrot seed oil
Carrot seed oil exhibits anti ageing, revitalising and rejuvenating properties. The bioactive compounds in carrot oil enhance the health of healthy skin and effectively repair skin damage caused by pollutants. It is also effective in making skin brighter and clearer.
Green tea
Green tea is rich in compounds called polyphenolic catechins that protect the skin and inhibit carcinogenesis induced by UV-B rays.
Calendula
Calendula officinalis has been shown to have exceptional antioxidant, anti inflammatory, and wound-healing properties. Research has been conducted on the sun protection potential of calendula essential oil, showing that calendula can offer sun protection and be used in cosmeceutical products.
Arnica
Arnica has been used in homoeopathic formulations and as a topical cure for skin to treat inflamed pores, bruises and has been used even in haircare products to treat hair loss due to alopecia, strain and psychological causes [2].

Conclusion

Herbs have been used to enhance beauty since ancient times. With consumers becoming increasingly conscious regarding natural ingredients and ethical issues, skincare industries are incorporating plant extracts to formulate cosmeceuticals. Ingredients like coconut oil, jojoba oil, aloe vera, calendula, green tea, carrot seed oil and arnica have been shown to benefit skin and hair health. Advances like nanoemulsions can enhance their beneficial effects.

How the Food Research Lab can help

We are a global contract R&D facility that offer B2B services in cosmeceutical product development. We keep a close eye on consumer preferences and changing international regulatory environment. Our quality assurance and control teams ensure that the products are extensively tested and monitored for stability during manufacturing to eliminate any flaws. Every product we create is based on thorough ingredient research, ensuring its success.