Scientific Research and Innovative technologies used in developing your cosmeceutical products

Unlock the Power of Science for Radiant Skin – Use of Marine Ingredients.

Interesting News . Sep 18, 2024

Scientific Research and Innovative technologies used in developing your cosmeceutical products

Cosmetics are defined by the Federal Food, Drug & Cosmetic Act (FD&C) as “articles intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled, or sprayed on, introduced into, or otherwise applied to the human body or any part thereof for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance”. Today, the beauty industry is a multi-billion-dollar industry and continues to grow at a rate of 4.75% worldwide, with further growth expected in the coming years. In today's world, cosmetics have advanced beyond just enhancing appearance; they have become a crucial part of personal wellness. Besides consumer’s prefer natural goods / products, which prompted manufacturers to look for new solutions for cosmetic production. The shift toward plant-based alternatives reflects not only a response to environmental concerns but also an increasing recognition of the potential benefits that using natural extracts, nature-identical ingredients offer. Development of cosmeceuticals or cosmetic pharmaceuticals, and integration of artificial intelligence suggesting new formulations are going to drive this industry. The trends in cosmetics are driven by consumer preferences and popularized by social media, but they also need to be sustainable and ethical.

As the global population ages, with those 65 and older expected to nearly double by 2050, addressing the challenges of aging has become a major public health concern (Dogra et al., 2022). This shift is putting pressure on healthcare systems and increasing the need for strategies to manage age-related conditions and improve the quality of life in older age. While extending lifespan is a key focus of anti-aging research, the main goal is to improve healthspan—ensuring people not only live longer but also live healthier, more fulfilling lives (Seals, Justice, & LaRocca, 2016). With skin’s growing importance in physical attractiveness, skincare concerns have become increasingly prominent. However, creating such treatments that effectively address the complex aging process remains a significant challenge.

Mechanism of Skin Aging

Anti-aging cosmetics are essential in caring for the skin, improving its quality, and supporting overall health. The global anti-aging market, valued at USD 63.01 billion in 2022 and expected to reach USD 106.65 billion by 2030, highlights a growing consumer preference for proactive aging solutions (Report of Anti-Aging Market, 2023). With a compound annual growth rate of 6.8% during the forecast period of 2023–2030, this significant market expansion underscores the demand for innovative anti-aging approaches.

Mechanism of Skin Aging

In the pursuit of effective anti-aging treatments, numerous compounds have been investigated, including resveratrol, rapamycin, metformin, and aspirin (Corrêa et al., 2018; Park et al., 2012; Partridge, Fuentealba, & Kennedy, 2020). Although these agents show promise in addressing different aspects of aging, they each have limitations in terms of efficacy, safety, and long-term use. For example, resveratrol has been found to possess antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, but it suffers from low bioavailability (Walle, Hsieh, DeLegge, Oatis, & Walle, 2004). Rapamycin, which has extended lifespan in various organisms, carries the risk of immunosuppression (Mannick & Lamming, 2023). Metformin, commonly used to treat diabetes, has mechanisms in aging that remain uncertain (Le Pelletier et al., 2021). Similarly, while aspirin provides anti-inflammatory benefits, it also poses the risk of bleeding, particularly in older adults (McNeil et al., 2018). These challenges underscore the ongoing need for the discovery and development of new anti-aging compounds that are both effective and safe.

While ingredients from terrestrial plants are gaining popularity, the marine environment offers a rich and diverse source of both biological and chemical compounds. From microalgae and macroalgae to seaweed, coastal plants, marine fish, bacteria, as well as sea mud and water, these marine resources are packed with essential minerals and nutrients that are highly beneficial for maintaining healthy human skin. Through recent research, new chemical is been focused with cosmetic potential from marine natural resources which concludes microbial biotechnology in crucial findings of sustainable way of harvesting bioactive metabolites to obtaining good quantities of highly valued components as cosmetic ingredients.   Among the oceans wide biodiversity, bacteria and algae constitute a major source of active ingredients. Some examples of marine organisms such as fish, sponges, plankton and crustaceans etc.  have been reported to have skin care benefits through antioxidant, moisturizing, and anti-aging effects. 

Most used ingredients in cosmetic products

Figure 2 below shows the most commonly used ingredients in cosmetic products. The “top 3” of marine ingredients comprise extracts from Laminaria digitata, Kappaphycus alvarezii, and Chondrus crispus. Laminaria digitata (used in 6.8%) and Kappaphycus alvarezii (used in 4.85%) correspond to novelties, while Chondrus crispus was already used in 2011 (with an increase of use from 1.05 to 4.85% in 2018). Although, in general, manufacturers specify the species of the marine ingredient, sometimes, a mixture of extracts is designated. Algal extracts are designated in various cosmetic formulations and reduction in its use can be found in time period (from 2.63 – 1.94%) The European Commission database for information on cosmetic ingredients contained in cosmetics (CosIng) [22] lists this ingredient as “an extract of various species of algae; extract of the seaweed, Fucus vesiculosus, Fucaceae”.

Occurrence of marine ingredients in anti-aging cosmetics commercialized in the Portuguese market

The most marine ingredient that has potential anti-aging effects. lva lactuca, Ascophyllum nodosum, Chondrus crispus, Artemia, and Spirulina proved to be the most efficient towards anti-aging. Examples of the isolation of a secondary metabolite from a marine ingredient and further evaluation of their antiaging properties are also scarce, since usually either extracts or even mixtures containing several ingredients are tested instead of the isolated metabolite, making it difficult to assign an effect to a certain metabolite (1).

Marine Ingredient Anti-aging Effects/Active Ingredient Type of Study
Hydrolyzed Ulva lactuca extract Hydrating, film-forming agents, skin hydration In vivo
Ulva lactuca oligosaccharides Anti-aging effects, skin firmness In vivo
Ascophyllum nodosum extract Antioxidant activity, inhibits tyrosinase, prevents skin aging In vitro
Laminaria digitata extract Activates collagen synthesis, slows aging process In vitro
Chondrus crispus extract Antioxidant activity, skin protection In vitro
Kappaphycus alvarezii extract Hyaluronidase inhibition, skin tightening In vitro
Spirulina maxima Hydrating, antioxidant activity, UV protection In vitro
Porphyridium cruentum extract Antioxidant activity, prevents oxidative damage In vitro
Chlamydomonas reinhardtii extract Antioxidant, anti-collagenase, and anti-hyaluronidase activities In vitro
Plankton extract Antioxidant, improves skin health Not tested
Artemia extract Stimulates cell protection, tightens skin, delays aging Ex vivo
Thermus thermophilus ferment Prevents oxidative damage, improves skin elasticity In vivo
Alteromonas ferment extract Scavenges free radicals, tightens skin, enhances moisture In vivo

The following table represents marine-derived polysaccharides and their cosmetic properties: This table highlights various polysaccharides from marine sources and their respective cosmetic properties, as well as where these polysaccharides can be found.

Polysaccharides  Cosmetic Properties  Source Species 
Alginates and their salts (calcium, sodium, magnesium, ammonium, potassium)  Binding, Emulsion-stabilizing, Film-forming, Humectant, Viscosity-controlling  Brown macroalgae (e.g., Ascophyllum nodosum, Laminaria hyperborea, Laminaria digitata) 
Carrageenans (including hydrolyzed carrageenan)  Binding, Emulsion-stabilizing, Film-forming, Skin-conditioning, Viscosity-controlling  Kappaphycus and Eucheuma genera 
Agar and agarose  Binding, Fragrance, Viscosity-controlling, Skin-conditioning  Red macroalgae (Gelidium and Gracilaria species) 
Fucoidan  Skin-conditioning, Skin protector  Brown macroalgae (e.g., Sargassum stenophyllum, Fucus vesiculosus) 
Xylans  Film-forming, Skin-conditioning  Green macroalgae (Bryopsidales order) 
Mannans  Film-forming, Skin-conditioning  Green macroalgae (Bryopsidales order) 

Conclusion

Antioxidants may act at different levels regarding the prevention/ minimization of skin cutaneous oxidative stress. Three types of mechanisms of action can be observed: preventive, interception, and repair. Various marine ingredients with antioxidant properties has been described in this article which presents action mechanisms, with abilities to prevent and intercept reactive species or rectify the issues by these species.

The future of skincare is increasingly being shaped by scientific advancements, particularly through the emerging advancement use of marine ingredients. These powerful components, enriched with essential nutrients and bioactive compounds, offer remarkable benefits for achieving radiant and healthy skin. As the skincare industry continues to evolve, the demand for high-quality marine-based formulations is set to rise.

Partnership with our FRL Contract manufacturing services, with our evidential products and research, our expertise in marine ingredients create impressive skincare products. The specialized services in marine ingredient formulation ensure adherence to the highest standards of quality and sustainability enhancing products efficiency. Adopt to our cosmeceutical services that provides and supports businesses with full potential in marine science, providing consumers with extraordinary, effective and eco-friendly skincare remedies.